Banh Cuon: Tradition with a Twist
Banh cuon is a dish from Northern Vietnam that has gained popularity even in Ho Chi Minh City. From a simple breakfast dish, it has elevated into something that can be eaten at any time of the day.
Banh cuon is a crepe-like rice cake traditionally rolled with minced pork, wood ear mushrooms, shallots and garlic. But while there are many diners offering good banh cuon, there is one other surprising and most probably unexpected place that not only serves good banh cuon, but in fact exquisite, unlike any other. Moreover, unlike the usual dining places which are formal if not fancy, this one is definitely not, in fact just a stall with two tables and a few stools. But when it comes to the taste, it more than makes up for its simple set up.
Located at Nguyen Trai Street, District 1, the banh cuon stall is owned by Lan. The process of making the dish as well as other delicacies, fried cupcakes and fried shallots, is a family activity. The stall itself has been around for almost 50 years, founded by Lan's mother-in-law in North Vietnam who came to Ho Chi Min City in 1954. She handed the business over to Lan when she became too old.
At first glance, banh cuon sold at the stall looks like everywhere else, with the same thin, soft rice wrap and original fillings and toppings. But once you taste it, all the similarities disappear and Lan's banh cuon is unlike any other. For one, the banh cuon itself is so thin that one can see through the fillings. Unlike the other recipes, Lan's banh cuon is soft, even silky. The wrap itself is made with good quality rice, that is, fermented perfectly.
Because of its small space though, customers at the stall usually order banh cuon for take-out. But this hasn't stopped the unassuming diner from gaining a strong following of loyal patrons because of its extraordinary version of the traditional dish. Moreover, the owner is very warm to her customers, even giving additional herbs to the dishes.
Aside from banh cuon, the stall also serves other foods. It has nuoc mam, in fact two kinds: sweet for the Southerners; and sour and salty for the Northerners. They also have banh uot, wet cakes which are similar to banh cuon but sans the filling. At the end of each meal, the owner offers free tea to all of her customers, perhaps something that even adds to the stall's already big number of satisfied and returning clients.
In all, the stall's unassuming appearance, its exquisite banh cuon, and the warm service not found in other diners made it last this long, even for years and years to come.